28 October, 2009

Mt Kenya

Summited Bation Peak, the highest point of the Mt. Kenya massif (5100 m) after 16 pitchs and 19 hours of climbing.   Splendid rock, some snow and ice, a late afternoon blizzard.  (How many people have been in a blizzard in Kenya??)  Excellent, excellent climb.

19 October, 2009


country code: 254
0713 514  835

13 October, 2009


I have lost two dear, dear people this week, people I loved vigorously, people who made me feel loved, and special. That such a one as myself was worth the attention of such experienced elders I took as the peak of complement and I spent much thought on how I could show them my gratitude, though I was mostly at a loss.

Olga Sylvester was my mother-in-law. She housed me in San Francisco and showed me around the town and fed me at the sacred Kam's Restaurant. Before I left she baked me a rum cake that I was to have all to myself on the road back to S. Carolina. I can remember that cake as well as any food I have had before and since. That, and also her regular reprimands for not visiting enough and the sense that she was sincere and that she loved me. I never really expected her to go. I didn't know the time was so close.
She moved to S. Carolina recently and spent her last days with Carla and family. She died peacefully.

Happy needs no family name. Happy is enough. She is the ground from which the Mauldin family has grown and flourished. One only need to know Logan or Tom, or Caroline to begin to understand the sort of influence Happy has had on those around her. Her spirit of love and generosity is absent in None of the Mauldins. After my dad passed, who was it who offered me room and board and perhaps the finest coffee the world has ever known, and will ever know!...??? Tom and Melanie. (Melanie was responsible for the coffee!) Every time I come home, who is it that begs me to come up to the mountains to spend time with him and his family: Tombo. Who gave me a free ski pass on a rich rich powder day in Vale, housed me and fed me, and tried to steal Widgeon because they loved him in even a brief time: Logan and Chris. I won't even start with Caroline and her magnificence. . .

These are magnificent people. And I say it is in no small part because they have spent all their lives living in the light and under the model of Happy.

For those who know, Happy is to the Mauldins and Blondell is to the 'Manning boys'.

These are women who you don't need eyes to see: they radiate love and peace all around them. You can feel them. Happy was a magical and wonderful woman whom I knew but briefly and sparingly. But I am glad.

She lived to a mighty old age. She died with the sight of her family--her loved ones-- in her eyes and the sounds of their hymns in her ears. For those lucky enough to know the Mauldins, you know that the sight of them is something to behold, and the voice of Caroline something to marvel at.
It was a fair death.


Journals in Chagos_________

Chagos Archipelago is in the heart of the Indian Ocean, south of India, south of the Maldives, lying near the fifth parallel. I left Borneo in June, sailed three weeks to Bali, enjoyed Bali for two weeks and reprovisioned the boat. Then I sailed west for twenty-five days before making landfall at Saloman Atoll in the Chagos Archipelago. Chagos is not a secret; it is in fact quite famous. So I was shocked to find, in the fading afternoon sun, as I crossed the lagoon, not one single boat lying at anchor.

Naturally, at first, I was mildly disappointed. How one craves company after nearly a month at sea! But as I settled in with a cup of coffee, a snack, a rolly, and some rum—it hit me. Hard. This was Absolute Solitude, solitude of such dimension that it is nearly without counterpart in the world. I was struck silent with it. I felt my life running before me and thought, if all my life sufferings had the sole purpose to bring me to this place, to this time. . . to this sort of surreal experience of solitude and beauty—then my time has been well bought. This is enough.

Saloman is an atoll of small size and with long expanses of barren reef, which leaves open the endless horizon to the eye. Endless. . . eighteen-hundred miles east to Sumatra, the same distance west to Kenya, eight-hundred miles north to India, and south, who knows?. . . all the way to the Antarctic. As I sit and watch dusk settle over the western motus, I can look directly east down the course that I have sailed for the last month. There is nothing but sea between me and Bali, nothing, sea and the curvature of the earth (and a rare fishing vessel!).

I am not above loneliness. I suffer it the same as anyone I suppose. Perhaps over the years I have acquired more defenses against it, as it rarely overcomes me. But when confronted by the sheer vastness of something like this, the entirety of the world utterly unobstructed—there is no "aloneness" like it. At this moment, I am one of the most singularly isolated people in the entirety of the world, in time as well as space. Since when has man ever accomplished such solitude?

Shipwreck. . . Selkirk? (known fictionally as Robinson Crusoe). . . history doesn't remember castaways. Tom Neale on Suvarrow Atoll. Early astronauts alone in space. Yogis in caves in the snow. Desert hermits. Solitary confinement in prison.

The smallness of Saloman is important. The weight of the ocean lurks so close. I can hear the breakers on the outer reef endlessly. I can see their white spray in all directions. Am I really so safe, protected?. . .so small a place. The great white shark swimming slowly around the small metal bars of the shark cage.

The feeling would not be so potent if this wasn't a spot of such ostentatious beauty. The water glimmers night and day above the white sandy shallows, like a mirror to the moon. The coral hedges billow with small fish like bees around their hive. Some shine with such brilliance I truly wonder to myself if they aren't somehow luminescent, like fireflies or glo-worms. I saw five sea-turtles the first day. One swam straight to me and let me touch it and swim with it for a time. Dolphins and wahoo even enter the lagoon which is new to me.

At night, the moon still waxing, lights the whole anchorage in green light. Carrol the dinghy seems to be floating on air like a magic carpet, hovering above her clear shadow ten feet beneath her. I look out over the sand hoping to see some large sea monster ease through the pass and enter the lagoon to feed in the night. None comes. I sit and play guitar in the moonlight and watch and wait.

One night I thought the bow of the ship was ripped off and fell into the water. I heard such a cachophany I nearly paniced. Did the mast fall down?? How?... I ran topsides to look. And everything was as it always is. Nothing. I looked under the boat to see what might have fell overboard. . . nothing. Then, in the distance I saw a great rushing of water. Some predatory fish was chasing a great school of needlefish. Needlefish are great leapers. What must have happened, as they were chased past, they didn't see the boat, and a great number of them simply collided with my bow and anchor chain. It was a magnificent noise.

Each night if I came on deck with a flashlight, there were such quantities of fish in the shallows where I anchored that the lagoon would boil with them fleeing the light.

I am more comfortable sailing at night, staying out of the sun in the daytime. I have become half nocturnal. So even now I am tempted to stay up in the moonlight for hours, listening to the wind, looking over the reef to the endless miles of sea. The weight of the miles, the expansiveness, isn't oppressive, but palpable, present, tangible in a way I've never experienced. Have you ever had a moment atop a mountain, looking at the world beneath you, so small in the distance, that your individuality, your personhood shrinks to a pinhead? You become nothing, which is to say, part of everything, a fiber in the thread of eternity. I have often climbed peaks for this very communion. One could call it Rapture. Those experiences, all of them, pale to the solitude of Chagos.

Is this happiness? I don't know. I don't think so. It has some pleasure, no doubt. I scream out and laugh at the absurdity of it all. I revel in the beauty. But the experience is of vast space that is beyond my mind, a tremulous presence in a world that would suck me into the void if I were a micron smaller.



Chagos is an atoll. Atolls, as a rule, are most interesting underwater. The diversity of their motus—the little islets around the perimeter of the atoll, is spare, populated by seeming luck. Birds, crabs, and the abundant coconut palm.

Underwater however species migration is much more prolific. The reefs provide a rich foundation for a diverse—not to mention spectacular—ecosystem. Chagos has its barrier reef along with ten to twelve motus. Inside this is a protected lagoon roughly four miles across. Inside this lagoon are many coral heads rising up from a moderately shallow (60 feet and more) bottom. These coral heads and the many fingers along the inside of the fringing reef are splendid diving.

I like to dive first thing in the morning. When I say, 'dive', I mean snorkel, or free-diving, or skin-dive. I don my mask and fins and fall overboard. There is so much coral around my boat I needn't travel—at least before breakfast. The coral is not magnificent in color. Past bleaching is still evident, but, that said, there are some glorious individual corals of so many colors, particularly red, and a few spotted with neon green. What captivates me is the quantity of fish, both in numbers and species, and particularly the small ones.

My unfortunate analogy is that of flies swarming a carcass. There is no other description: these small fish swarm over the coral, through the coral like fingers through hair. And the little guys are so handsome. They are all colors, but some have stripes that I would swear glow of their own light. They shine without the sun. They are truly magnificent, which is something special in things so diminutive.

Of course there are the many butterfly fish in abundance and many others: wrasse, parrotfish (huge ones) baby blue tangs are the most populous, copper sweepers, peacock rockcod, cardinalfish, seaperch, Moorish idols, demoiselle (these are the ones I'd swear glow), dascullus and damsals, blemmies and gobies, and on and on and on.

In "Song of the Dodo", David Quammen describes small island wildlife as not being "tame", as that implies a sort of learned trust or tolerance to humans, but instead "naive"—they have no gene or trait, no history, -that lends them mistrust or fear. We are neither predators nor prey. They are often curious. Noddies (a seabird) come and rest upon my railngs in calm weather. The fish tolerate proximity just short of touching. Indeed a special experience for me was finding a sea-turtle, which abound here, and having it actually swim to me! It swam around me, then let me follow him for a while and even let me touch it, not that it enjoyed that bit. How amazing: swimming with a sea-turtle, not just seeing one fleeing before you, but watching, interacting with it. Such amazing and strange creatures. I wonder how they survive. When I found him, he was munching on coral, and when I left he went back to munching on coral.

I have found two wrecks here, both sailboats. One less interesting than the other. One magnificent though. You'll have to read elsewhere for an account of it (Row to the Land of the Coconut Crab). Full to the brim with copper sweepers—all content to watch me join their company.

And the octopus—one of the most amazing things I've EVER seen.

Sharks aren't as common as I'd like. I've seen only a few.

[I have since found them, they are all in the pass, the other way from where I was diving.]

A new activity for me is taking Alice, the dinghy, out in the afternoons for a row. We go along the reef, pulling very lightly and cleanly with the oars. We glide over the shallow waters—three to six feet, and more—waters that aren't my favorite depth for diving. But from the dinghy, it is like looking into an aquarium. Sometimes I row backward as to be facing forward, or set a drift. I always find a turtle, and had a black-tip reef shark circle around once. It was so clear. And this particular shark was a beautiful copper color, very elegant. I roll a cigarette and drift, watching the butterfly fish and my favorite powder blue tangs dance through the coral like woodducks through a cypress swamp.


Of course, mostly I've done nothing but read. It has rained continually for over a week. It is hard to motivate to dive if there is no sunlight. Rays of light bring the underwater world to life. There is no terrestrial forest in the world to match a coral reef in light. (I am saddened to say, as my love is on land, not at sea. Yet it is undoubtedly so.) And there are few to no terrestrial animals to match the splendor of the fishes. I can think only of the colors of parrots, peacocks, and ducks, woodducks and harlequin ducks in particular. Maybe throw a pheasant in there as well. These birds match the fish in color, I'm not sure they have the grace. When has a bird ever glowed . . like some of these little gobies and demoiselles?? They have no clumsy appendages, only sleek, slender forms perfect for their environment.

Of course many look to have come straight out of a nightmare—there is a vast spectrum of morphology to be sure. But the fish who inhabit the sunny side of the reef are invariable handsome and stunning in color, and their match is hard to descry ashore.

The Authorities__________

People at last!! Today the British authorities came in a great orange ship called the Pacific Mariner (how original, especially seeing as we are in the Indian Ocean.). They are stationed out of a US military base on Diego Garcia, a small island south of here, but still a part of the Chagos Archipelago. One of the only times I can remember being truly pleased to be boarded and checked by the military. And they were awfully friendly and understanding. They fielded uncounted numbers of questions from me—a whole months worth! And seemed happy to do so. Of course, I had my permit, that helps.

They also levied the unhappy news that the prolific rain I've experienced over the last two weeks is only HALF of a tremendous front moving through. And I had thought of leaving today. . . what now? How long shall I wait? . . . surely not another two weeks!

The Sailing Vessel Afar_________

After two weeks alone, I open my hatch to see a boat coming through the pass and heading my way. Excitement indeed. I get out the binoculars. It is hard to believe, but I could swear I knew the boat. As it slowly approached the letter became clear on the bows: ARAR. Pete aboard afar was a friend of Annabelle's in New Zealand. We met him in the Philippines and again I saw him in Kudat, Malaysia. And stranger yet, when I bussed down to Kota Kinabalu (also in Malaysia) I saw him when I went to walk the docks there. He was heading down the west coast of Borneo some weeks before I headed down the east coast. But he was also heading for Africa, via Seychelles. How he came to be here now, seemingly behind me I couldn't fathom. He should have been well ahead. And yet there he was.

This was great.

I hopped in my dinghy and rowed over as he slowed to drop the hook. He had new crew. Long story short, we laughed and told stories. We drank of all of my remaining rum. He had already come to Chagos a month before, but had left to sail north to the Maldives to surf, and was now returning. His crew he picked up there and was a great and interesting guy. Pedro. He is planning to bicycle from South Africa to Europe.

My birthday was just a few days off and the weather seemed to be clearing. We caught fish and celebrated. We took their motor dinghy across to the coconut crab island and succeeded in catching one of the monsters. That was good fun.

I left them there on the 18th. The wind was fair and I had been in Chagos nearly three weeks. Time to sail. Pedro, as I left, gave me a great big brownie as a birthday cake for the road. This was great. I was touched.

I sailed out to find the wind on the nose, as always. I shortened sail and started clocking miles. They would turn out to be some of the finest I've ever sailed.

The Passage________

Happily, there is very little to say about the passage from Chagos to Kilifi, Kenya. The saying 'no news is good news' is never more true than it is on passage. However it wasn't what I expected.

I expected SW'lies. I got mostly Southerlies. I might have that that a wind off the beam would have been uncomfortable, but there was little swell most of the time. The wind was light, 12 kts. We maintained a slight heel and great speed. The wind seemed to shift 20° fore or aft regularly so I had to watch the course like a hawk. When the wind came even farther toward the bow it was never strong enough to be uncomfortable, never a beat. When the wind went aft it was strong enough to steer a fair course.

I could almost say I had no windvane breakages, but five-hundred miles from Kenya a lower weld which held the lower starboard arm sheered, and I was forced to lash it together. Needless to say, with only three supports, the vane was a bit wobbly, but at the same time the winds decreased, easing the load on the vane. It held course all the way into the coastal waters.

There, about forty miles out, the wind died all together and it was just at dawn, therefore I had a perfect motor into port to arrive in the early afternoon, which I did.

I found the entrance to Kilifi Creek to be slightly hairraising in that the second set of towers has been encroached upon. I am blind anyway. I was trying to steer a 270 through the outer pass meanwhile staring hard over my shoulder with the binoculars trying to find towers to line up a 330.

I couldn't do it.

And I couldn't see the outer reef. I had to come in as tight as I could to the shore break—which I could see—and follow that line, which turned out to be something like a 320, so I felt good and clear of the outer reef.

On passage I had managed to fix the depth sounder which had quit on me in Chagos. (Normally things break on passage—on this passage I actually fixed things that were already broken. Ha.) so I could see that I maintained a good depth all the way in.

The boatyard anchorage is great. The people who work there are incredibly pleasant. Customs and Immigration are both available in Kilifi since July, and they were wonderful as well.

No problems, a rare passage that you arrive with energy and a smile.

Long Row to the land of the Coconut Crab___________________

Rain – morning row – abandoned village – coconut crabs – island diversity - row to windward – octopus - wreck

Rain, rain, rain. Within a few days of arriving in Chagos, the rains returned. (I'd been sailing in rain for most of two weeks.) I couldn't complain. I sat back with a morning cup of coffee and Lord of the Rings and spent the days basking in solitude and the quiescence of a boat without wake. I might take Alice the dinghy out in the afternoons if there was a break. Just drifting over the reef I would see sea turtles and sharks and rays, the water being so clear and the coral only three feet down at the tops. It reminds me of those glass-bottomed boats for yokals. I would try for a snorkel in the mornings, but it rained and then rains some more.

After a week however, I started to feel it was time to move on. The weather seemed to be fairing up. But I felt like my old self (in a bad way), like I wasn't really making the best of the place. I was drifting in Alice and looked across the lagoon to Boddam, an island on the far side. There had once been a settlement there and I had meant to move Brillig there and anchor and see the place. The rain had dashed that. So I thought, why not row?

This idea caught my fancy. Indeed, I wasn't even sure if I could do it. It was downwind. . . what about current? I didn't know. Not sure how hard it is to row that far as I've never tried it. All the uncertainty gave it a really exciting feel. My blood tingled; it seemed the thing to do.

I figured eight miles in the worst conditions could be done with ardor. If your life depends upon it—you can row eight miles! All I had to do was make sure I didn't get swept out to sea or sunk. If the weather was fair in the morning, I was going.

And so it was. I was up at dawn and didn't skimp on provisions. I was still alone on Chagos; I'd have to take great care. Water, lunch, dive gear, and my usual emergency supplies. It felt good. The morning was calm and brisk and strangely quiet; the lagoon was flat and the current was setting me north into the lagoon instead of sucking me out. I made great way and I felt fit. I was set hard north, but I made Boddam in just over two hours. Almost anticlimactic. Not sure my heartrate was even up. The day was young yet, there was plenty of time for the trouble, and that was yet to come.

I beached Alice and started a jaunt down the beach. I didn't know where this so-called settlement was, yet, looking about fifty yards down the beach there was a stone outcropping with a flagpole. I took that as a sign that I wasn't far off.

Just off the beach there was a concrete building with no roof, no windows, no doors, just rubbish strewn about the foundations. Was this it? Totally disappointing. So a family had lived in this little ramshackle hut and cruisers had used it since to homestead. Okay, so it had a volleyball net. But the scene lent me no desire to have "An Island to Oneself" as Tom Neale had.

Yet my aloofness was premature.

Overcoming my disinterest, I wondered why they bothered to build a wall far out beyond the building. Walking beyond it, I found a clear path. (Still strange to me that it should remain clear after so much time.) Following it, it let to yet another structure, then another. As I walked, a whole former community opened up in the heart of the island. (I wonder if, deep down, I knew there was more. No one builds seriously on the beach—no protection from the wind and storms.)

It struck me as strangely eery. Like a lost Inca city deep in the jungle. A concrete wall running down the lane. An old church, all building lacking roofs and doors. The island was quiet except for the odd occasional rustling amongst the coconuts. There weren't any animals here, domestic, I mean. I thought little of rustling until, on the edge of the path, I saw a literal monster.

It was a crab, a crab like I've never seen before. (Okay, only once though.) But they are now rare. It was a coconut crab, the largest terrestrial invertebrate in the world. (I read that just now.) They live for decades and can reach three feet across from leg to leg. This one wasn't that huge, but when you are used to hermit crabs, it was spectacular. That is, until it took a few steps toward me instead of scurrying into the palm fronts. Then I eyed his claws and wondered about their temperament. Those claws clip off fingers.

He came no farther. I was next to scurry. . . for my camera. I saw an old coconut crab once on Suvarrow Island in the Cooks. It was sort of a pet of the caretaker of the island. But here, on Boddam, they were all over. It was something to behold. They reminded me of old fat kings, sitting atop a horde of coconuts all to themselves. And there were piles and piles of coconuts, simply a wonderland if you were a crab.

It is an interesting fact about Chagos, and small islands in general—there is no competition. So few species ever make it here that, if they can survive, it is all theirs. On the motu where Brillig is anchored. The island is dominated first by coconut palms, almost a monoculture. In the trees squawk boobies and noddies. Loads and loads of them. The trees sway with them. On the ground teams hermit crabs, and a few other varieties. In the middle are the spiders, which, oddly enough, look just like little crabs. And there is at least one hornet or wasp. I know because it stung me.

There is nothing else. Nothing. Yet Boddam was a bit different. Not nearly the preponderance of spiders, thank the lord, yet it had more mosquitoes, which on my island never bothered me. And not the birds either.

As I was taking this walk amongst the eerie abandoned settlement (apparently the British Gov. kicked them all out for some reason), the trees started to bend on the beach. The tradewinds were back. And strong. And in my face. And I had an open lagoon to row.

This fact made it a little hard to sit back and relax on the island, or do a little snorkeling amongst the many coral heads there. A fetch was building up and I started to realize that my wish for adventure was in fulfillment. It was going to be a long row home.

Brillig was four miles DEAD upwind. The current AND the wind AND the windwaves would all be working against me. And Alice Carrol was so so small, with such meager freeboard (height above the water)—at least she was light and my oars are good.

Well, that was that. I ate my lunch, now only eleven o'clock, sharing my crackers with some hermit crabs. I was wanting to be off. How long would it take? How long could I go? We should see.


It was slow indeed, but not so bad as I had feared. Alice reared up over the swell reasonably. I rowed with some confidence and we trudged on. After the first hour, we had done nearly two miles. This was incredible. . . in a good way. The leeway was bad, but again, better than feared. I found a reef in the middle of the lagoon and anchored the dinghy to have a dive and a rest. It was a beautiful pillar of coral surrounded by blue. So near the reef breaks I thought I might see some large sharks. I didn't but what I did find, all by accident was more amazing, and perhaps one of the damnedest things I've ever seen.

As I dove down to a smaill shelf, I approached a wad of fish; they cleared out but there seemed to be one left behind, which I took a close look at. And all of a sudden, this great eye looked up at me, and, somehow, the thing changed.

What the hell was I looking at?

It was a great big octopus. Big. Its body was over a foot across. It had turned all crimson as I approached it—what the fish were doing there, I haven't the foggiest—I was only three feet away I figure. Close. I never would have seen it otherwise.

I had to stare at it for some time until I saw it properly. It isn't like you'd see in a book: an open-swimming, tentacled, sea monster. His tentacles were coiled beneath him; I just saw a crimson blob. . . with an eye. It moved a bit; a tentacle curled around itself and then I knew all at once: octopus.

Then it got weird.

It was smooth and crimson. I saw it and knew it. Then it vanished, well. . . it transformed, but perfectly. It's colors went to shades of brown and tan in great blotches. But what was more, its skin took the patchy texture as well—it grew great lumps, like boils, developed pock-marks.

Wow. . . I almost failed to remember to breathe. I didn't want to take my eyes off it—I would never find it again.

Remember the movie Predator, or James Bonds car—that invisible-stuff is no joke. Nature can do it better than technology. When it changed, it vanished. There was nothing 'octopus' about it. Only a coral head. Completely invisible. I couldn't have dreamed any 'real' thing could possible do true magic like that. I saw it. Me. And I am amazed.

It warily slunk into the coral and was gone. I was wowed and slunk back aboard Alice for the remainder of the row. I was unconcerned now. I was nearly halfway home and it was yet one o'clock in the afternoon. I had to beware the leeway. Nothing else.

Yet conditions change. I don't know why, but the going only got worse. The fetch was beating against the bow and those last few miles just wouldn't come. At least I finally got what I wanted: tired. If I hadn't thought to bring my old mountain-biking gloves to wear I hate to think of condition of my hands.

The southern break was roaring in my ears; the last few islands slowly eased on past, and the lee of 'my island' came at last. I was hot and tired and dropped anchor away to the south of Brillig for one last dive. To my amazement, as I dropped in I spied a hulk on the edge of the reef. As I swam over, a fifty foot hull lurched on the edge of the reef where it had unwillingly become part of the topography.

Being no more than ten feet under, it was easy to dive. As I went down and into an open hold, I was met by hundreds of copper sweepers, teeny-tiny fish with strangely articulated tails. Apparently they are nocturnal. I guess they spend their days lingering in the wreck. The hull was simply full of them, a fog of fish as dense as I have ever seen. They didn't shy away either. I came right in amongst them and they sort of looked at me, but without interest. (Ha, I am reading into the eyes of a three inch fish!)

Upon inspection, I found a gaping hole in the side of the yacht where it must have worked against the reef until it failed and sank. It was a concrete boat, which do not tolerate reefs with any candor.

That was enough for me. I craved hot coffee, a rolly, and some peace on deck. The day was done; an adventure was had. Tomorrow I would haul anchor and get back to the work of finding Africa at the far end of this voyage.

Of course the weather did not hold and I did not leave for Africa.


Oasis of Sea and Mind__________

Thoughts on solitude.

Christopher McCandliss (or Alexander Supertramp) as he lay dying in his bus in the far reaches of Alaska wrote in his journal: "Happiness must be shared." Sailing alone I spend a lot of time thinking about the "cost" of solitude and a life lived alone. I sacrifice family and relationships; comfort, ease, and safety; social, sexual, and mental stimulation. . . but do I also sacrifice the experience of happiness as well?

On the whole, I don't think so.

McCandliss had it wrong, or he wasn't ready for the experiences he faced. Not completely wrong, mind you. "Happiness" is a vagary in itself. Is it the comfort of love and pleasure of life? For some, for most, but is that perhaps not a bit superficial as a life goal? Isn't life perhaps a bit more grand than all that? If not, then McCandliss was right. How many times have I seen some marvel and looked around me to see who had shared the experience, only to find myself alone, the experience dimmed, diminished—no one could understand. This is true and this is what McCandliss learned I think. . . in the end. Beauty is magnified with solidarity.

But there is more to life than this wink and the smile, the "hey, did you see that??...amazing eh!—the life of solidarity and love. There is a depth to certain experiences that is perhaps bolstered by solitude—one is forced to commune only with his environment. And one is confronted by the precise dimensions of self. And there one learns—or I learned—that those 'precise' dimensions are hazy at best. Even in extreme solitude, one cannot escape solidarity. One man alone on a vast sea doesn't feel that way, alone as it sounds, instead he feels a part of the sea, a part of the vast pregnant world around him. This is the solidarity and communion of extreme solitude. And it is potent.

I think I am coming around to the idea that I am willing to suffer for experiences that, for me, transcend the mundane, experiences that recast my soul in their wake. I wish to see things that make me tremble. I am currently in the midst of an experience of this sort, and I may call it happiness, but in truth it is Awe. Akin to epiphany. But I am alone, shockingly alone.

Makasaar Strait

Beat Through Makasaar Strait_______

Trip from Borneo to Bali

Lee-shored – broke windlass – coral maze – Lankayan Island – Sulu Sea – Sandakan Entrance – Kinnibatongan River - crocodiles – Celebes Sea – 1200 miles to Windward – phenomenal phosphorescence – Makasaar Strait – Lombok one last gale – near collision – mad current – Benoa Harbor, Bali.

Leaving the northern tip of Borneo, if your goal is the Indian Ocean, there are two possible routes: the east coast or the west coast. The west coast takes you past Singapore and through the Sunda or Malacca Straits and into the ocean. The east coast is the Celebes Sea and takes you past Bali, the Lombok Strait, and into the ocean. Borneo is the third largest island in the world (behind Greenland and New Guinea, just bigger than Madagascar), so it is no trifle to pass. Also the South-West Monsoon is in force, making the route dead to windward.

However I had often said that the most windless place I've ever seen on any chart is the Celebes Sea. In deliberating on which way to go, east or west, I was strongly against the eastern route for this reason, even though the strong winds on the western side would be straight in the face. I decided in the end not to decide. I sailed out and would go with the wind east or west, depending which way it blew that day.

The trip had an auspicious being: I got lee-shored. This means that the wind veers around and pegs you to the shore. This also means that it is blowing across the water (not the land) and building up waves to further its mission of setting you ashore. I left Disneyland and simply went across the bay. Oddly, it was blowing easterly, so I stopped against the western shore for the night so I could clean my hull in the morning in the nice clear water before setting off south.

Of course, just as I hop in the water the wind veers around to the SW. I don't notice at first, as I am working on the hull, until I notice that the waves are growing. By the time I am back aboard it is blowing hard and I realize I am in a real fix. There is coral all around me. Brillig was fetching so hard that when I tried to bring up the anchor, I broke the anchor windlass (winch). Now it gets dangerous; this is how sailors loss fingers: the boat is bucking madly, the chain I am partially hauling by hand and securing before it runs out. It was crazy. But I got it up.

Then I damn near clobbered a reef trying to tack my way out of the coral. If I hadn't had an engine that day, I would have been hard put to it. I was not very proud of myself, but I was at least glad to be safely away. Not a great start, but that seems to be my way: I am only competent enough as a sailor to barely avoid disaster.

Now the SW'erlies were back, so I trimmed my sails, tightened my belt and fell off to the east. This was intimidating. The north-eastern portion of Borneo is scattered with reefs. My navigation must be perfect. Having a fair wind was a great advantage, allowing me to trim my course perfectly. But I'd have to be on watch constantly for a full day or more until the waters opened up or I could find a safe anchorage for some rest.

The sailing at least was beautiful, many lovely rocks and islands passed through my wake, the wind held until early in the morning, as the worst was behind me. I cranked Yolanda the Yanmar as the sails fluttered and motored the last five miles to Lankayan Island where there was a shallow shelf that would hold my anchor for a few hours as I slept.

I felt so good, good to be sailing again after a month in Kudat, good to be sailing alone again after. . . over a year!, and good to have navigated such a treacherous bit of water. .And the waters of the Sulu Sea (which I would soon be passing out of for the Celebes) were so colorful and rich. Simply the best phosphorescence I've ever seen. I could see the glow even in the daytime. The rudder-wash looked like a green fire shot from a turbine engine.

As I rested in calm of Lankayan, the sea was as flat as a roller rink. In the afternoon yet another westerly picked up and I set sail to use what fair winds I could garner. It was shocking to have such fine wind, but, as I should have realized—and probably did—was that it wouldn't last. However, as irony rules, the fabled calms of the Celebes Sea I would have bet my keel on never came. Indeed, quite the opposite.

The day following my departure from Lankayan I made it to the mouth of the Kinibatongan River. Some friends had ventured up it and said the depth was fine and there were no obstacles. They should have said other than the entrance. I mean shallow, seriously shallow. I must have had a foot under my keel (and twice nothing!) But as the tide rose, and I eased through the mouth, the river deepened and the jungle opened before me, and together they wound inland through one of the last wild lands on Earth.

Blind as I am, I saw no orang-utans this time, (remember, I've already once been to the Kinibatongan, but without my boat) but I saw monitors and crocodiles and kingfishers and monkeys. Just motoring up stream, being somewhere other than in an open sea with my sailboat was such an exhilarating experience. It didn't last, or I didn't let it. I was keen to cross the Indian Ocean, to make landfall on African soil. I spent only a few days on the river. Long enough to kill all the remaining growth on my hull. Going down was far quicker. . . duh.

As I eased into the Celebes Sea, my fair winds passed away. Yet the calms I expected were usurped by something altogether more predictable: the South-West Monsoon! And, of course, in force. So, though I sought to hide from them to the lee of Borneo they came for me all the same. And with a vengeance. I beat and beat, day after day. For every mile I'd sail I only would make half that distance or less toward my destination. I was lucky to make fifty miles a day. And I had a thousand miles to sail! Suck it up and trudge on.

So, what I had naively assumed would be a ten to twelve day trip turned out to be nothing of the sort. I had current, significant shipping traffic, not too much rain thankfully, but I had plenty going on without that nuisance.

The Celebes Sea narrows into the Makaasar Strait. It was here that I was concerned with current and safety. The Strait is narrow enough that it you were to fall asleep at the wrong time there would be the reality of an imminent reef to wake you from any pleasant dreams. However, once the southern portion of the Makasaar Strait is won, several things happnen: One, I cross the Equator. (Yah!) Two, I reach the southern boundary of the SW Monsoon. There the SE Tradewinds start to show. A much fairer wind, because, and Three, my course now bears off further westward. (I have been on a southerly course.) This allows me to sail off the wind, at least in theory.

In practice however it worked for only about. . . a day, or two. Bali was in my sights. The worst was surely behind me. But as I approached Lombok Strait, separating Lombok Island from Bali, my last obstacle between me and Benoa Harbor on the SE corner of Bali, the winds again quartered around to, of course, my nose. And, of course, they blew a gale.

So I sat for another day in a light gale within sight of Bali. My spirits were good. I could still laugh. I never expect to arrive until I have arrived. And so it was. The winds moderated. I had been hove-to. I set sail and with very very light winds and entered Lombok Strait. What I found there was shocking.

Though the winds were light, I was flying through the glassy water at five knots. Current: the northern waters, like me, yearned for the ocean beyond. All the northern seas: Java Sea, Celebes, ect north of Indonesia flow south into the Indian Ocean. I was thankful to be on the right side of that current. At one point just before dawn, I hove-to to slow down so I could arrive in the light—I was still doing 4.5 knots! Wow.

I should note that during the night I had an extremely close call with, luckily, a very small fishing bonka. I was strumming the guitar on deck with a bit too much attention, and their light was far too faint (as is mine I might add). As my song ended and I noticed the light, I shined out with my spotlight—and their entire hull lit up like Christmas. I went into evasive action and disengaged the windvane and jibed the boat as they crossed the bow. In the dark it is hard to say how close it was, but it was close enough.

All the same, just after dawn, I cranked up Yolanda and made my bearing for the harbor entrance and the winding channel markers beyond. By eight am I had dropped my hook in eight feet of sand and mud in a very strange harbor indeed, man-made, shallow, a bit crowded, dirty. Not the touristy-paradise one thinks of as Bali.

My first impression would not be my lasting memory of the place. I made good friends there who took me around and showed me the beauty of the island. We climbed a volcano; we ate and drank, we saw stunning beaches, (covered with stunning. . . . . . tourists.)

It was not an easy passage.

24 days and 1200 miles to windward, with one island and one river thrown in for measure. The windvane broke three times! I broke the windlass and took on a goodly portion of water. My stay'sle was unraveling in three places. My computer died. There was work to be done before I could enter the Indian Ocean and attempt the long miles between Bali and Kenya. But Bali was as good a spot as any to do it. And the passage behind me was just that, behind.

09 October, 2009

giant coconut crab

Largest terrestrial invertebrate in the world.   The coconut crab, not so easy to catch.  Claws will cut off fingers.  Live for something like fifty years.  Saloman Atoll (Chagos) was covered with them.  They are an endangered species as locals islanders eat them faster than they can reproduce.  As Chagos has no more locals, the crabs do well.  They own the island.

07 October, 2009

update soon

I will update soon, but both of my computers crashed so i am short of access.  But suffice it to say, i landed well  in Kenya it the people have been amazingly kind.  I am finding the thought of leaving difficult.
Thank you to everyone who sent me good thoughts underway.  I had an exceptional passage.